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Wednesday, October 22, 2014

Haunted House - created with Gallery Glass - 24"x36" Poster Frame

Last year I created this display for the Plaid Lobby. You still have some time to make it, if you are quick! I got the idea from a clipart.com illustration but did some serious altering to make it suitable for leading and paint. Look closely at the original drawing. I enlarged the design many times on the copier to fit the poster frame and then altered the lines of the design as I leaded with a Tape Tip. Even before I painted it, I made some corrections to the "neighboring houses" that appeared in the lower corners. I leaded a bush to fill in the space. I also cleaned up some of the confusion in the sky among the branches--pulling some of them up and adding new lines that made more sense.
The problems I encountered during the painting phase were new challenges for me-- because I don't ever remember painting something that needed to look OLD! I'm not smart enough to "age" the project as I painted it, so I cheated. I painted it with normal colors, then I "distressed" it with Copper Metallic. Here is a picture of it before the distressing. As a co-worker pointed out--"it's too pretty, it makes you want to live there!" That's not a particularly desirable comment to have made about a Haunted House. So I began working to make it more ominous. I first took Copper Metallic and topically applied it to the porch railings in a random "woodgrain" pattern. Then, I decided that the concrete porch looked too clean, so I applied the CM in lines to look like boards. Then the door looked much too clean, so I streaked it on the door. Then I realized that the Copper Sparkle on the turret and the fishscale shingles was much too bright, so they were next. That only left the sides of the house and --you guessed it, CM, why not? Then the co-worker said that we needed at least one bat--so I added it to the less cluttered sky area.
I think that it looks appropriately scary. But don't let it SCARE you away from the project. You can do it. Let me know if you figure out how to do the distressing--as you go. I want to share your ideas with our readers, even though I'm sure that I don't want to attempt this subject again. It frightens me to think about it!

Now, don't you dare write in and tell me you liked it better BEFORE I distressed it!


FolkArt Extreme Glitter Supplies: 2797 Extreme Glitter Black, 2791 Extreme Glitter Purple, 2792 Extreme Glitter Red, 2794 Extreme Glitter Emerald, (red and green were mixed equally together to make a brown Extreme Glitter for the tree.
Gallery Glass Supplies: 16004 Sunny Yellow, 16005 Orange Poppy, 16003 Cameo Ivory, 16096 Celedon Green, 16459 Italian Sage, 17054 Copper Metallic (discontinued), 16422 Copper Sparkle, 16421 Silver Sparkle (discontinued), 16094 Champagne, 16024 Ivy Green, 16076 Black Liquid Leading.
Sorry, I didn't color key the pattern, but this is basically what I did. The tree is all Extreme Glitter. I mixed the Red and Emerald together to get a brown because EG doesn't come in brown. Then alternated between the Black and "Brown" on the trunk. The grooves were done with Purple.
The railings are Cameo Ivory. The walls are Celedon Green and the door is Italian Sage. The porch floor is Silver Sparkle. The fishscale shingles and turret are Copper Sparkle and the roof is Copper Metallic. Windows are Sunny Yellow and Orange Poppy. Distressing is Copper Metallic and the background is Champagne. (Charcoal might have been a better choice for sky.)
In case you're wondering about the "green" pattern. The styrene still had the green plastic on the back.


Wednesday, October 15, 2014

Eve's Spooky (and fabulous) Halloween Clings


 

 
You were introduced to Eve's amazing talent in August with "Eve Goes Pro with Gallery Glass" (see below). The post explains how she had done a window for a neighbor that included the residence number. We corresponded by email and I learned that she had a "Clings" board on Pinterest, which she shared with me. Of course, I knew that you, our wonderful readers, would enjoy seeing more of her awesome creativity in the blog, so I asked her to share some of her original artwork with us --in time for Halloween! I also invited Eve to share the back story of how she got into Gallery Glass, etc. Here are her words and some of her fabulous creations.
 
"To answer your question about how I started making clings, it all began back in 2004/2005  That summer, it was UNUSUALLY hot, so hot in fact that we were trying to block as much sunlight as possible from coming into the condo. We were issued a warning citation for covering our windows with unapproved colored material and I was getting desperate to figure out a way to customize some sort of window covering that contained the 3 approved HOA colors (tan, mauve & powder blue). One day, I happened to see a Palladian window in the same complex as ours that looked like stained glass and it was fabricated with the approved colors mandated by our HOA. I knocked on the door to inquire about the window & the woman who answered the door basically introduced me to the whole Gallery Glass world!"

"Back then I was NOT a craft person what-so-ever! I was extremely intimidated about attempting to fabricate anything. But the summer subsided and I still wanted to try my hand at making Clings. I first tried the pre-leaded Redi-Lead shapes (the roses and flowers) but after finishing one, I was dissatisfied with how the design looked. So, I got a little braver and began practicing making my own leading. I followed the suggestion of taking a plain piece of ruled paper and placing it under a leading blank. After practicing the lead lines and making several mediocre clings, I mastered the technique of holding my hand above the surface and "dropping the leading".

"At first, I made the clings for friends and family.  They loved them so much that they convinced me to try & sell them. My first foray into selling my Clings was at our local swap meet. I focused on making holiday designs and I sold all the inventory, but in retrospect I completely undersold myself and practically gave them away! I guess that is typical for a budding "artist"- it seems like we are always the last one to see the worth of our craft." 


"A good friend of mine suggested Craig's List and I got started!! I did receive a decent response to my ad.  I plan to have a garage sale in a few weeks when the heat dies down, so I'm furiously working on fabricating holiday-themed clings to display and sell."
"I am estimating that my Entire cling catalog has in excess of 150+ Cling designs. I have them categorized in my PC and titled in special main folders such as: Holidays, People, Places, Animals, Floral, Creatures and Miscellaneous (these are usually geometric patterns or symbols --example: the universal Japanese symbol that expresses friendship). Then I have separate sub-folders for each specific category (Animals would have separate sub-folders such as dog cat, birds, Of the Ocean, etc.) I am so jazzed that I devised this organized photo cling cataloging literally on the first day I completed my very first cling! The ability to share with you specific images as they fit a particular need or season is going to be so easy. It will give me the ability to share my clings as I need them--pertaining to time frames, seasons, etc."
 
I'm so glad that Eve was generous enough to share her talented creations with us. If you click on the attachment, you can print out the pattern and have some of these whimsical Clings for your seasonal decorations. Become inspired by Eve's story--remember, she wasn't even crafty--but she systematically set out to learn a new skill. Maybe you have a family member who NEEDS a new interest. Buy them some leading and the basic colors of Gallery Glass--and see what happens. They could become as passionate about Clings as our Eve! You never know!






  
 
 
 


 
 
 
 
 

Thursday, October 9, 2014

Serious Halloween Pumpkin for Kids


If you have have kids in your home, you probably want to go for the real jack-o-lantern effect with your glass art. Here is a quick, easy pumpkin that the kids can HELP you paint. And to create best feature--if you use the CS15128 Glow in the Dark Mod Podge for the eyes, nose and mouth, they will glow in the dark when the lights go out. You can mix a little Sunny Yellow with the Mod Podge to brighten it up. Sure to become their favorite Halloween decoration, you can save it for next year, just by placing it in a plastic bag and storing it in a cool place.
 
One of the best things about this pumpkin is that it uses an 8x10" panel--could be glass from a photo picture frame. The outside edge is outlined with Redi-Lead because it is hard to keep a bead of Liquid Leading up on the edge. It keeps wanting to slide over the side. The hole was melted into the center of the top so that a ribbon could be slipped through for hanging. There are several tools for hole burning. I prefer a wood burning tool, but you can also use a heated large paper clip held with a potholder, so you won't burn your fingers.








Wednesday, October 8, 2014

Black Cat and Pumpkin Gallery Glass

I thought this was a cute black cat, if there is such a thing--aren't black cats supposed to be bad luck? Maybe, but hopefully this one won't bring anything but crowds of admiring "trick or treat-ers" to your door on Halloween. This panel uses some alternate Gallery Glass finishes combined with the traditional paint.
The first special product that I love for Gallery Glass is Extreme Glitter in the 2 oz. size. I used the Black Extreme Glitter for the Cat. It is opaque, but has that slight glint to it--reminds me of a cat's glistening fur coat. Then I used the Red and the Orange Extreme Glitter for the pumpkin--blending them to create the illusion of roundness. You can use Orange Poppy and Pumpkin Orange, if you don't want to go out and buy the extreme Glitter. But I encourage you to buy all  14 colors in the store or from <plaidonline.com>. They are wonderful additions when you want a metallic sparkle to your Gallery Glass projects.
I put more alternatives in the supplies list. In case you don't have the discontinued Glow in the Dark Mod Podge, Glow Away will work just as well, but don't let it get splashed after the project is cured and be careful cleaning the finished panel, because Glow Away will wash away with water, but it has significant glowing power and for that reason, it is an alternative. You might paint the eyes, nose and mouth of the pumpkin with 16004 Sunny Yellow and let it dry, then put a coating of the Glow Away over the cured coating of yellow. That way, you will have a very yellow glow to your pumpkin's features. I put kitty on a 12" circle, which I happen to have a lot of, but you can put the design on a piece of glass from an 11"x14" picture frame.

Supplies List:
2797 Black Extreme Glitter
2774 Red Extreme Glitter or 16005 Orange Poppy
2793 Orange Extreme Glitter or 16429 Pumpkin Orange
16002 Snow White
16004 Sunny Yellow
16005 Orange Poppy
16008 Kelly Green
16024 Ivy Green
16035 Lime Green
16095 Black Onyx
16429 Pumpkin Orange
16001 or 16081 Crystal Clear
CS15128 Glow in the Dark Mod Podge or 5042 Glow Away



Tuesday, September 30, 2014

Making Clings with Gallery Glass

Back to school time puts more emphasis on sports and Fall holidays. You will want to celebrate each and every one with Clings. Some can be made into a themed overall window design and others are great for just the occasional temporary holiday motif on the window. I love to decorate my kitchen window over the sink with the Clings of the season. It helps me to focus on upcoming events so that I can maximize my efforts toward that holiday in a timely manner. Don't make Clings larger than your hand because they will not store as well and have a tendency to fold up on themselves. It's better to divide a large image into several parts and place them next to each other if you are making a larger decoration. After you've become familiar with the technique, scroll to the bottom the post to see a whole year of designs.

Please feel free to print out designs and patterns. 1. Move curser to image you wish to print. 2. right click on the image and sdelect "open link to new window". 3. Click "File" and select "print preview" 4. Adjust size by selecting "shrink to fit" and find the percentage that will allow you to print the whole design. 5. "print"



Fall/Winter

I would like to expand on the category of Clings. Below is what I would call the "long form" instructions. If you are a beginner, you will benefit from these tips and techniques. 
How to make Clings - Gallery Glass Clings are easy and fun to mak. These are two simple steps to follow: First, lead the designs with Liquid Leading. Next, fill in the areas created by the lead borders with Gallery Glass paint.

Positioning Your Pattern - Choose a Cling design, draw your own design, or adapt one from another source such as a coloring book. Place the pattern under a GG Leading Blank with the smooth side up. Clings will not stick to the window, if made on the rough side of the Blank. Surface Alternative: Trace the designs for your project, cut them out, and tape them ontio a piece of cardboard that will fit into a food storage bag. Make the Clings on the outside of the bag. Peel off and use the bag for new designs.

Outlining the Cling Design with Liquid Leading - Before you begin, protect your work surface with white or light color poster board,
Note: Decide if your Cling is too detailed for a 1/8" bead of leading from the bottle. You may need to use a Tape Tip. Instructions to create this narrower bead are given in this blog under the Leading Tips Category.
1. Prepare the Leading bottle: You bottle probably already has a hole, so remove the tip and remove the protective seal. Hold the bottle upside down and tap it firmly on a hard surface to force leading into the tip.
2. Practice leading: Reap step 3, then practice that technique on notebook paper. When you feel comfortable with the technique, begin leading your project.
3. The grip: Hold the inverted bottle in "broom handle" fashion in a vertical position. Do not rest your elbow on the work surface; it will inhibit your movement.
4. Making a bead: Squeeze the bottle. As the leading begins to flow, "anchor" (or touch) the leading to the surface where you want to begin the line. Apply even pressure and a uniform cord of leading will form. Raise the tip of the nozzle above your work surface before moving forward. The "cord" of leading will drape down onto the pattern line as you squeeze the bottle, following your pattern as you move forward. When you get near the end of your pattern line, stop squeezing and lower the tip to your work and allow the bead to intersect with previous lines. By stopping pressure BEFORE the end of the desired line, a bump of extra leading at the end--is prevented.
5. Drying: The leaded project must dry for at least 8 hours before adding paint--longer if conditions are humid.
6. Correcting mistakes: After the leading is dry, use your fingernail to pull up any unwanted leading and snip off or trim it away with small scissors. Lay the leading line that remains back on the Blank and press firmly in place. Do not use a craft knife on the Leading Blank.

Carol's Tips for Leading
 Messy lines: Uniform lead lines are achieved by dispensing leading ABOVE the surface and by coordinating your pressure on the bottle with your forward movement. Practice on notebook paper until you have mastered this skill. I practice making lines and grapes until they look smooth and uniform.
Beginning Bumps: If your leading curls up around the bottle tip as you begin to squeeze, you are not "anchoring" the leading to the plastic soon enough or you need to wipe the tip with a paper towel before beginning the line.
Ending bumps: If tails or bumps occur at the end of a line of leading, stop squeezing sooner than you are--well before you reach the end of the line--and bring the tip down to allow the bead to end on the plastic or a a previously leaded line.



Painting the Cling with Gallery Glass Window Color (bottle in illustration is an older version of Window Color)
Note: Do not shake the bottles of paint unless they appear to have separated, because the paint will get thinner, making it difficult to apply to a vertical surface without running. However, it is fine to use on horizontal surfaces, regardless of the viscosity.

1. Remove the cap. Clean out any dried paint you see in the tip. You can push it to the side, easing it out of the bottle, remove the dried paint and replace the tip firmly into the bottle by snapping it into place.
2. Coloring: Begin adding paint into your leaded design by squeezing it around the perimeter of the leaded area, then fill in the center. (see photo)
Be sure to apply the paint up on the leading, using it as a bumper while  you are applying the paint. Failure to do so will leave light holes or a lighter "halo" next to the leading. The paint up on the leading will not show when the Cling is cured. Add a generous amount of paint up to the top of the leading, but do not add so much that it sticks up above the leading. If the colored area is too thin, the cured Cling may tear during removal from the plastic. Use a nutpick or a toothpick to evenly distribute the paint in the section. (See photo)
3. Combing: To minimize bubbles, "streak" back and forth in the paint to smooth the texture and pop the bubbles. Be careful when combing on plastic bags.




4. Tapping: After combing, more bubbles may be popped by "tapping". Hold the Leading Blank or piece of cardboard firmly in your non-painting hand and tap directly under the combed section with a pencil, the acorn end of the nutpick or the inverted bowl of a teaspoon. If using plastic bag covered cardboard, tap more firmly. (See photo)
5. Clean-up: If you spill paint on clothing or another surface, wash it off immediately using soap and water; do not allow it to dry before removing it.
6. Drying: Allow the project to dry for 24 to 48 hours on a dry, flat surface with good air circulation, such as the top of the refrigerator. Drying time may vary depending on the thickness of the paint and the humidity. All cloudy areas must turn transparent before proceeding.



Removing the Cling
After the Cling has cured, it can be removed from your project surface (Leading Blank or Plastic Bag). Like magic, the leaded and painted design will peel up as one piece. The Cling can now be placed on a clean window or mirror where it sill adhere-- without addition glue or adhesive--until you wish to peel it off.

Carol's Painting Tips
Size: When designing your own Clings, limit the size to approximately 5"x5" for maximum durability. 

Segmenting: Designs should be segmented so each color has a closed section. Add lines to your design where needed before the leading step. This step also adds to the look of real stained glass.

Holes: Small "light" holes in corners of painted sections can be eliminated by dabbing Liquid Leading over the hole. This method is less noticeable than re-coating the section with paint, or trying to patch just the gap with wet paint.

Changing a color: Change your mind, or someone put their finger in the wet paint? Wait until the Cling dries, remove the Cling from the Blank or plastic bag, and use small scissors to cut the paint as close as possible to the lead line and remove it. Place the Cling on project surface, press flat and apply more colors. Let the new color dry thoroughly.

Darkening a color: To intensify a color, you may apply more than one coat. Let each coat dry before applying the next.

Lightening a color: Paint may be lightened by mixing it with Crystal Clear before applying. Pour it into a foam cup and mix with a craft stick, then pour back into one of the bottles for application.

Cloudy look: All Gallery Glass paints have a milky appearance immediately after application, but they will be clearer whey dry. Some colors dry transparent (like Crystal Clear) and some dry translucent (like Snow White). Experience will show you which are more and less transparent.

Bubbles: Small air bubbles that are hidden under the surface during application can sometimes add to the realistic stained glass look. However. eliminate large bubbles for a more uniform coating either by using the tip of the bottle or a "pick" for popping. Be meticulous about Combing and Tapping. They are essential for a bubble free professional looking project.

Window Application, Removal & Storage
Window Application: Place the Cling on a clean window or mirror. Smooth the design from the center outward to avoid air bubbles. Note: Do not place Clings on moist windows that sweat in Winter.

Removal: To remove the Cling from a window, life the edge and pull gently. In cold weather, Clings may shatter if the glass is too cold. If it seems brittle or resists removal, warm it first with a hair dryer. In warm weather, the Cling can stretch during removal--wait until the glass is cool to remove it (like at night).

Reusing: If the Cling will not stick when reapplying, clean the back with a paper towel moistened with window cleaner before putting it on a completely clean window.

Storage: To store Clings, ideally place them on Leading blanks, press out any air bubbles and store in a plastic bag. Keep them cool and flat until ready to reapply. The bag is essential to keep the Clings flexible over time. Never store any Gallery Glass project in tissue paper, The paper fibers will adhere to the surface. However, paper fibers can sometimes be removed with a wet cloth and serious rubbing. Also, don't store in bubble wrap, the bubbles will leave bumps in the surface of the cling.


Now for the printable instructions that you may want to print out and lay beside you as you work. You can see the longer description of each step in the process printed above. 
Winter/Spring
Spring/Summer
Hobbies & Careers
Junk Food & Summer Fun
Baby Aninmals and Pets