Snow Fun is So Fun!

Gallery Glass Clings are generally intended to be independent Suncatchers that you make on a horizontal surface, peel off and mount on a vertical surface. However, if you make a series of related suncatchers, you can mount them on a window that looks like you did it flat. This use of Clings is called the Modular Method. We haven't done many posts in the Modular Method category, and this post may be your first introduction to the technique. You can either make the snowmen, trees and house to put them along the bottom of a window. Or you can tie them together with pre-cured Liquid Leading squeezed out to make lines-- or of course, you could use Redi Lead to connect them together.  I dug into the Gallery Glass Archives and found this same set of Clings used in a window motif--with some helpful how-to photos. I decided to assemble a version of the window to display at Plaid during January so I added some playful snowmen. However, I think it would have been more colorful if I had used Teddy Bears, but it's too late for that. I also decided that it was best to give you all the information and let you decide where you wanted to start--and stop with Gallery Glass Clings.

Note: I left the captions under the pictures so that you can just scan the technique, but if you really decide to do a modular window, please read the instructions. There is a lot of shared experience in these paragraphs.

How to Make Clings
Gallery Glass Clings are easy and fun to make These are two simple steps to follow:
First, lead the designs with Liquid Leading.
Next, fill in the areas created by the lead borders with Gallery Glass paint.

Positioning Your Pattern
Choose a Cling design, draw your own design, or adapt one from another source such as a coloring book. Place the pattern under a GG Leading Blank with the smooth side up. Clings will not stick to the window, if make on the rough side of the Leading Blank.
Surface Alternative: Trace the designs for your project, cut them out, and tape them onto a piece of cardboard that will fit into a food storage bag. Make the Clings on the outside of the bag. Peel off and use the bag for new designs.  

Outlining the Cling Design with Liquid Leading

Before you begin, protect your work surface with white or light color poster board,
Note: Decide if your Cling is too detailed for a 1/8" bead of leading from the bottle. You may need to use a Tape Tip. Instructions to create this narrower bead are given in this blog under the Leading Tips Category.

1. Prepare the Leading bottle: You bottle probably already has a hole, so remove the tip and remove the protective seal. Hold the bottle upside down and tap it firmly on a hard surface to force leading into the tip.
2. Practice leading: Reap step 3, then practice that technique on notebook paper. When you feel comfortable with the technique, begin leading your project.
3. The grip: Hold the inverted bottle in "broom handle" fashion in a vertical position. Do not rest your elbow on the work surface; it will inhibit your movement.
4. Making a bead: Squeeze the bottle. As the leading begins to flow, "anchor" (or touch) the leading to the surface where you want to begin the line. Apply even pressure and a uniform cord of leading will form. Raise the tip of the nozzle above your work surface before moving forward. The "cord" of leading will drape down onto the pattern line as you squeeze the bottle, following your pattern as you move forward. When you get near the end of your pattern line, stop squeezing and lower the tip to your work and allow the bead to intersect with previous lines. By stopping pressure BEFORE the end of the desired line, a bump of extra leading at the end--is prevented.
5. Drying: The leaded project must dry for at least 8 hours before adding paint--longer if conditions are humid.
6. Correcting mistakes: After the leading is dry, use your fingernail to pull up any unwanted leading and snip off or trim it away with small scissors. Lay the leading line that remains back on the Blank and press firmly in place. Do not use a craft knife on the Leading Blank.

Carol's Tips for Leading
 Messy lines: Uniform lead lines are achieved by dispensing leading ABOVE the surface and by coordinating your pressure on the bottle with your forward movement. Practice on notebook paper until you have mastered this skill. I practice making lines and grapes until they look smooth and uniform.
Beginning Bumps: If your leading curls up around the bottle tip as you begin to squeeze, you are not "anchoring" the leading to the plastic soon enough or you need to wipe the tip with a paper towel before beginning the line.
Ending bumps: If tails or bumps occur at the end of a line of leading, stop squeezing sooner than you are--well before you reach the end of the line--and bring the tip down to allow the bead to end on the plastic or a a previously leaded line.

Painting the Cling with Gallery Glass Window Color (bottle in illustration is an older version of Window Color)
Note: Do not shake the bottles of paint unless they appear to have separated, because the paint will get thinner, making it difficult to apply to a vertical surface without running. However, it is fine to use on horizontal surfaces, regardless of the viscosity.

1. Remove the cap. Clean out any dried paint you see in the tip. You can push it to the side, easing it out of the bottle, remove the dried paint and replace the tip firmly into the bottle by snapping it into place.
2. Coloring: Begin adding paint into your leaded design by squeezing it around the perimeter of the leaded area, then fill in the center. (see photo)

Be sure to apply the paint up on the leading, using it as a bumper while  you are applying the paint. Failure to do so will leave light holes or a lighter "halo" next to the leading. The paint up on the leading will not show when the Cling is cured. Add a generous amount of paint up to the top of the leading, but do not add so much that it sticks up above the leading. If the colored area is too thin, the cured Cling may tear during removal from the plastic. Use a nutpick or a toothpick to evenly distribute the paint in the section. (See photo)
3. Combing: To minimize bubbles, "streak" back and forth in the paint to smooth the texture and pop the bubbles. Be careful when combing on plastic bags.

4. Tapping: After combing, more bubbles may be popped by "tapping". Hold the Leading Blank or piece of cardboard firmly in your non-painting hand and tap directly under the combed section with a pencil, the acorn end of the nutpick or the inverted bowl of a teaspoon. If using plastic bag covered cardboard, tap more firmly. (See photo)
5. Clean-up: If you spill paint on clothing or another surface, wash it off immediately using soap and water; do not allow it to dry before removing it.
6. Drying: Allow the project to dry for 24 to 48 hours on a dry, flat surface with good air circulation, such as the top of the refrigerator. Drying time may vary depending on the thickness of the paint and the humidity. All cloudy areas must turn transparent before proceeding.

Removing the Cling
After the Cling has cured, it can be removed from your project surface (Leading Blank or Plastic Bag). Like magic, the leaded and painted design will peel up as one piece. The Cling can now be placed on a clean window or mirror where it sill adhere-- without addition glue or adhesive--until you wish to peel it off.

Carol's Painting Tips
Size: When designing your own Clings, limit the size to approximately 5"x5" for maximum durability. 

Segmenting: Designs should be segmented so each color has a closed section. Add lines to your design where needed before the leading step. This step also adds to the look of real stained glass.

Holes: Small "light" holes in corners of painted sections can be eliminated by dabbing Liquid Leading over the hole. This method is less noticeable than re-coating the section with paint, or trying to patch just the gap with wet paint.

Changing a color: Change your mind, or someone put their finger in the wet paint? Wait until the Cling dries, remove the Cling from the Blank or plastic bag, and use small scissors to cut the paint as close as possible to the lead line and remove it. Place the Cling on project surface, press flat and apply more colors. Let the new color dry thoroughly.

Darkening a color: To intensify a color, you may apply more than one coat. Let each coat dry before applying the next.

Lightening a color: Paint may be lightened by mixing it with Crystal Clear before applying. Pour it into a foam cup and mix with a craft stick, then pour back into one of the bottles for application.

Cloudy look: All Gallery Glass paints have a milky appearance immediately after application, but they will be clearer whey dry. Some colors dry transparent (like Crystal Clear) and some dry translucent (like Snow White). Experience will show you which are more and less transparent.

Bubbles: Small air bubbles that are hidden under the surface during application can sometimes add to the realistic stained glass look. However. eliminate large bubbles for a more uniform coating either by using the tip of the bottle or a "pick" for popping. Be meticulous about Combing and Tapping. They are essential for a bubble free professional looking project.

Window Application, Removal & Storage
Window Application: Place the Cling on a clean window or mirror. Smooth the design from the center outward to avoid air bubbles. Note: Do not place Clings on moist windows that sweat in Winter.

Removal: To remove the Cling from a window, life the edge and pull gently. In cold weather, Clings may shatter if the glass is too cold. If it seems brittle or resists removal, warm it first with a hair dryer. In warm weather, the Cling can stretch during removal--wait until the glass is cool to remove it (like at night).

Reusing: If the Cling will not stick when reapplying, clean the back with a paper towel moistened with window cleaner before putting it on a completely clean window.

Storage: To store Clings, ideally place them on Leading blanks, press out any air bubbles and store in a plastic bag. Keep them cool and flat until ready to reapply. The bag is essential to keep the Clings flexible over time. Never store any Gallery Glass project in tissue paper, The paper fibers will adhere to the surface. However, paper fibers can sometimes be removed with a wet cloth and serious rubbing. Also, don't store in bubble wrap, the bubbles will leave bumps in the surface of the cling.

Making a Scene on a Window
You can use individual pre-made Clings connected together with lead strips to decorate a whole window for holidays or every day. Choose the Clings you wish to display. The pattern size for some elements of the design may need to be adjusted with a copy machine to keep "in scale". This must be done before leading and painting. Also make duplicates of the designs that will be used more than once in the completed scene --such as trees. Place the individual Clings in the desired location on the window.

Making Lead Lines for Window Scenes
1. To ensure smooth, straight leading, use a piece of notebook paper for a pattern. Place the smooth side of a Leading Blank over it. You may use plastic covered cardboard instead of a leading blank, as described earlier in this project.
2. Calculate the number of feet of leading you will need. Be sure to make enough lines to complete your project. You can usually get approximately 25' of leading on one Blank.
3. Prepare the bottle and hold it "broom handle" fashion in a vertical position. Do not rest your elbow on your work surface. (See earlier Leading Instructions and Tips for more information.)
4. Squeeze a line of leading down each line of the notebook paper. Don't worry about blotches or mistakes; they will trimmed off later. (see photo)
5. Let the leading dry thoroughly, at least 8 to 24 hours--longer if humidity is high.
6. Thoroughly clean your window with glass cleaner.

7. Peel up the cured lead strips. Use small scissors to trim any blotches or irregularities from the leading before applying them. Then press them onto the clean glass. Do not stretch the strips as you are applying them. Strips can be pieced together, if you have a pattern line longer than your strip, by putting them together end to end. Do not handle your strips more than necessary. Small gaps will be filled in later. Intersecting lines should be trimmed with small scissors so that they meet cleanly; do not overlap leading strips.
(see photo)
8. Connect strips to Clings as needed and continue on to the edge of the window. Make sure all the background is segmented with leak strips. Touch up any gaps by filling in with Liquid Leading squeezed from bottle onto glass. Let these gaps dry thoroughly before applying Gallery Glass paint.

Applying Gallery Glass Paint to Window Scenes
You may want to fill in the blank areas of your design with color. This is easy to do because Window Color can be applied to a vertical window surface. Note: Do not shake the paint. For best results, apply paint in one section at a time. The amount of paint you will need varies depending on the size and type of your project. For vertical application, allow one bottle for every square foot. (This quantity is approximate; coverage varies with depth of application.)

1. Start with a section at the top of the window and run a thin bead of paint across the top of the section, overlapping the lead line above it. Be sure to cover the corners. Squeeze gently and move the bottle side to side as you move downward. If the paint begins to run, you are applying too much. Use the tip of the bottle to spread it thinner. Use less paint towards the bottom of the section because it may slide downward. Always complete an entire section before beginning another section or taking a break. Be sure to paint to the edge of the section to avoid light holes. (see photo)

2. Comb the paint with a toothpick or nutpick. Hold the pick perpendicular to the glass. Start at the top of the section and streak back and forth in the paint from lead line to lead line until you reach the bottom of the section. This will smooth the bumps, pop the bubbles, and give a directional grain to the paint. Comb similar sections in the same direction. (see photo)

Removal of Scene from Window: If you wish to remove the decoration, you can save the Clings by scoring around them with a craft knife and pulling them from the window. Store them in the same manner described above. Also score the background from the window frame and peel off the entire painted area and the added leading strips.

This sheet is a little tilted, but hopefully, it allows you to print all the patterns on one sheet. If they print out on an 8 1/2" x 11", you should enlarge them to 129% --if you want them to be the same size as mine. I put these Clings on a 24"x36" poster frame. I know--that's cheating--but I didn't have a window to put it on and I wanted to complete the samples so that I could post it during the holidays.  I'm sharing this so that you can get an idea of scale. Your window probably won't be the same shape or size, but the finished photo gives you an idea of how you can arrange the "hills" of snow. Print the sheet several times because you will need multiple trees and multiples of both snowflakes. 
The numbers on the patterns are not the colors that I used for the sample, but you can choose you own colors. Here are the ones I used: (I shaded the tops of the snow segments with Hologram Glitter and the bottom of the segments with Bluebird. The middle was filled in with White Pearl combed in a swirly motion. Snowflakes are Hologram Glitter.
Supplies:
16076 Liquid Leading, 16004 Sunny Yellow, 16005 Orange Poppy, 16007 Cocoa Brown, 16008 Kelly Green, 16011 Blue Diamond, 16021 White Pearl, 16024 Ivy Green, 16081 Crystal Clear, 16441 Silver Glitter, 16442 Hologram Glitter, 16636 Autumn, 17054 Copper Metallic, 17072 Gilded Oak 17073 Bluebird.

Christmas Clasics with Gallery Glass

Best Tree Ever --24"x36" Poster Frame

'Tis the season to put up the best of the BEST. I have loved this Tree for 30 years and it will probably always be my favorite. There is so much to look at--you can study it for hours. Gingerbread boys, lighted candles, poinsettias, golden bells, holly with berries, spruce fronds, metallic ornaments, seasonal fruit, a stocking with candy cane and even a doll. The only thing that's missing is light--and the sun provides that very nicely. Add a metallic bucket and some Hologram snowflakes and you've got a winning combination. It's definitely not a beginner project and a perfect candidate for the Tape Tip Leading Technique (see category for details), but you've got to love the fact that the poster frame costs less than $20 at Michael's and it is reusable. Don't even consider anything smaller.You're NOT going to love the fact that I can't bring myself to color code it. The pattern is available in below and you can do it in colors to match your decor. You can add the background "window panes" once you have selected the project frame. Just make sure they are of equal size. Extend the lines through the spacey areas at the bottom of the tree. Set it in the window and wait for the oooohs and ahhhhhhhs!

Santa Claus is coming to town in an 18"x24" Poster Frame

Who doesn't want a big bold beautiful Santa on their window? I have always loved the detail of his design, from the stitches on his pack to the jingle bells on his boots. He's gorgeous. Just make sure you have a new bottle of GG 16850 Ruby Red Shimmer for his velvet suit and a full bottle of 16851 Green Shimmer for his pack. They are my favorite colors at holiday time and if you can't find them, try --plaidonline.com.
Have I told you lately how much I love Dover Clip Art Books. I have gotten on a roll this season from one of their Books that I've had for over 30 years. But the good news is, it is still in print. It is Ready-to-Use Christmas Designs--ISBN - 0-486-23900-4 (doverpublications.com). Most of the elaborate designs that you have seen on my blog since Thanksgiving are from that book. I found it again over the holidays and can't stop interpreting the designs into Gallery Glass onto my new great love Poster Frames. They are a winning combination. By the way, they have a clip art book on almost every subject you can imagine, so save your holiday money and splurge. Remember, as an artist--you're only as good as your resource file!

Erupting Euphonium - 12x18" Poster Frame

I'll bet you thought it was a Flugelhorn! So did I, but I looked it up. Nevertheless, it is awesome. It must be Santa's Euphonium because toys are flying out of it. I took the opportunity to differentiate the carving detail with Gold Sparkle, Gold Glitter and Sunny Yellow. The combination makes a beautiful brass effect with very little effort. 12"x18" is a good size for this design. The toy detail isn't too small to lead easily with a tape tip. (Are you proficient at making one, yet?) Just checking.
The poster frame is so convenient to use. The styrene comes in the frame. I also have been mounting them with 2 large suction cups. You can put it on a window, anywhere without any hooks or wires. The lightweight frame is not too heavy and hasn't fallen off, so far. I just love it when projects are simple and easy. I got this poster frame on sale (BOGO) at Michael's. Wow, I laid awake thinking what a good deal that was and went back the next day to stock up. They make great gifts-- painted with Gallery Glass. You're going to be seeing a lot of them in the next few months on this blog because I have a garage full.

Ultimate Holiday Wreath - 18"x24" Poster Frame

So you have two windows and you need a companion piece for the Candles (see below). That's my situation, so I was motivated to find a design that would use the same color palette and a subject matter that would complement the other project without being--more candles. Besides fruit CAKE, a fruit WREATH is about as traditional as you can get. I was lucky enough to find a clip art motif that was blooming with luscious edibles. Though not a beginner project, it can be done by an intermediate who has mastered the Tape Tip Leading Technique (posted under Leading Tips). The shading is a little more delicate because you want the fruit to be highlighted in a realistic manner. But otherwise, it's a simple 2 step project--outline and paint. Check out the Patterns and Color Keys category to the right of the page for the complete pattern and detailed painting instructions.





Christmas Candles on 18"x24" Poster Frame

The end of the year holidays are my very favorite decorating opportunities. Why? Because we get to use so much glitter! That, and the color scheme is almost as bright and colorful as Pre-school artwork. We're going to go crazy with Gallery Glass designs before the end of this season, but I thought it fitting to start with one of my all time favorites. These candles have intricate detail and the illusion of carving created by the two shades of opalescence. The aura around the candles looks like rays emanating from the flame because I pulled the Hologram Glitter paint out from the Sunny Yellow in lines, leaving space in between them so that they wouldn't run together. The beautiful bow is made to look more dimensional by shading the Ruby Red with Berry Wine. And after the reds dry, squeeze a line of Hologram glitter along the edge of each section for that high end ribbon look. Other than these two special (but, easy) techniques, the painting is simple, just fill in the colors.
If you haven't discovered the Poster Frame aisle at your local craft store (I got this one at Michael's), you need to schedule a trip. The first good thing about them is that the molding is light weight (for easy hanging)and they come in a variety of standard sizes. The second good thing is that they come with the pre-cut styrene already in them, instead of glass--another plus, especially for shipping to mom and the gang. The third good thing is the price (we like it). They are much less expensive than buying standard frames with glass. Look to the right of this page under Project Categories - Patterns and Color Keys for the pattern and supplies list. You can blow the pattern up to any size, however, it is too detailed for anything smaller than a 16"x20".
Now, let's talk about the gratification factor. The design is elegant and impressive, without being difficult. The toughest part will be the outlining the pattern--definitely an opportunity to wind a Tape Tip on the Liquid Leading bottle. Take your time, the compliments are going to be worth it.

Elegant Gallery Glass Designs to adapt for Round Surfaces

Elaborate Ornaments - 12" Round

Let the bell toll and the ornament, too! Who wouldn't love to have this elegant piece hanging near their holiday tree. I am drawn to the delicate detail on both and it opens up a world of possibilities to use your specialty paints--Sparkles, Glitters and Shimmers. It doesn't really matter which of those you use where--as long as the placement complements the adjacent choices. I used Gold Sparkle for the Ornament with Gold and Hologram Glitter as accents. To coordinate, I used Silver Sparkle for the Bell with Silver and Hologram Glitter as accents. See, it's easy as long as you're consistent.
The pattern and supply list are at the bottom. You can enlarge these designs to fit clear glass plates, or 10" smooth plastic plates from the party store.



Simple Holiday Wreath - 12" Round

It's not all about detail. Big, Bold and Beautiful are my preferred qualifications for a good Gallery Glass Design. This is a project you can lead in 10 minutes and it doesn't take a lot of blending and shading to get the look you see. The secret is letting the paint dry, then adding the detail with glitter paints on TOP of the cured paint. It sparkles and winks with the blinking of the lights on the tree and is certain to be a big holiday favorite. It makes a great gift because it is colorful and impressive, but doesn't take a weekend to make. That's a good factor to consider at this busy time of year.





Elaborate Ornaments  - 12" Round

Enlarge pattern to 12". This design can also be done on an 11x14" poster frame, if round is not available. If you do not have Silver Sparkle, you can use Black Onyx and White Pearl in varying amounts on the areas marked 421. If you don't have either of the Glitter Colors, you can use Plaid's Extreme Glitter Gold, Hologram and Silver, which come in a 2 oz. size. Slender Bands on the ornaments are darkened, as indicated with dots and then combed to make the new darker color.
Supplies: 12" Round Chain Wrapped Plexi Blank, 16008 Kelly Green, 16015 Ruby Red, 16019 Gold Sparkle, 16010 Amber, 16023 Berry Red, 16024 Ivy Green, 16079 Black Liquid Leading, 16081 Crystal Clear, 16095 Black Onyx, 16440 Gold Glitter, 16441 Silver Glitter, 16442 Hologram Glitter, 16225 Gallery Glass Tool Set.

Easy, Breezy Gallery Glass for Christmas

Fabulous 10" Rounds
Ho, Ho, Ho! Santa is in the house. At least he will be when you complete this easy Santa head shot. It is a great design for kids to do as they wait for the anticipated "eve" to approach. The colors are traditional and most children pick this project as their favorite. Although the design is less detailed than I prefer, the subject matter can't be beaten. I often lead up all 3 round designs (Candle, Bells & Santa) and offer the artists a choice at holiday classes. That gives them a very pleasant dilemma--which one do I choose.

Try this candle as a warm up. It's quick and easy and makes a great gift (recurring theme of shopping network presentations). Once you get the supplies assembled, you can probably complete the whole project in about an hour of leading and painting. I often hang this piece with the Christmas Bells 10" Round because the colors and scale compliment each other.

At holiday time, bells often remind us of church services and family gatherings, and this piece certainly fulfills it's potential. Although it is an easy design, it will be admired by everyone that sees it. The colors are bright and cheerful--sure to bring joy to any heart that looks at them.









Wall Art or Window Art?

Bells are such a traditional holiday theme that it's hard to think of a new way to display them. But this round project has a lot of appeal--because of the carved detail on the bells and the opportunity to alternate the Silver Sparkle and the Silver Glitter. I know, I know--Silver Sparkle is discontinued and I have the only remaining bottle.
But did you know that you can make a similar color with White Pearl and Black Onyx. Shake them together in the bottle so that they are thoroughly mixed. I also used Red Glitter on the Bow--also discontinued, but you can mix Plaid's Red Extreme Glitter into Crystal Clear and get the same effect. Why would you want to go to all that trouble? Here's one reason.

People often ask me if you can hang Gallery Glass on the wall. Here is a good opportunity to do that. I used a number of Glitter colors in this piece. With the larger glitter chips, light is actually blocked so that the segments look "peppery" when strong light comes through it. So, the projects with glitter and sparkle paints look good against a wall because the chips reflect light. Notice how dark the Silver Sparkle looks because it doesn't let the light through. Look at the difference, and you be the judge.  Better yet, make a project with lots of glitter paint and move it around because it will look good anywhere.












Four of the Easiest Christmas 6"x9" ovals

Sometimes you need something fast and easy--both to lead and to paint-- especially when you are hosting a party of young artists or the young at heart. These designs are classic subjects and good line design, but the spaces are large and paint up quickly. The 6"x9" ovals are discontinued, but these designs work well on the plastic plates from the party store, or as suncatches, if you make them a little smaller than shown.

I like to offer a variety of designs for the artists to choose from because you may have leftovers and the fast kids can complete 2 or more designs (which they will love to do). It helps that they all use about the same colors. The good thing about the Gingerbread House and the Snowman is that they can be used after Christmas. Soon we will be adding a lot of designs of January snow scenes, but these two designs can bridge the gap. I prepare designs for every week of the year, so the "bridge" designs between holidays are very important.

Glimmering Glass Gifts - #8716

This time of year all crafters turn to "Gift Making". We all know that it just an excuse to run to the Craft Store and stock up on paint and every imaginable surface--then hold up in our craft space and paint 'til we DROP! Then when all the projects are sitting pretty in a row, we start assigning them to friends and relatives who haven't seen our face since school started. So here's a old book that I decided to scan and post because it has dozens of interesting painted surfaces that would make excellent gifts for everyone on your list. It's not too early to "get painting". Christmas is just around the corner.
In the distant past, I was lucky enough to enjoy stained glass--both leaded and painted--not only as my vocation, but also as my avocation. A lot of my non-office time was spent making finished samples for seminars and displays, experimenting with new texturing effects, and testing new products. It's no wonder, then, that after awhile I ran out of windows and flat panels. At that point, I started combing the stores for other glass objects to embellish with my product.
The very first shopping spree produced three huge bags of three-dimensional and household items. This convinced me that Gallery Glass wasn't just for windows and framed art. As a lifetime glass crafter, I could now simulate many of the wonderful leaded glass decorator pieces in the boutiques and gift shops costing five or six times as much.
As usual, there were some technical challenges to overcome, but it was a task I accepted with relish. The results are in this post for you to see. Three alternative methods are presented:
Vertical - You can create an item that looks like stained glass directly on the item in an upright position
Horizontal - You can do it directly on the item which has been placed in a horizontal position
Modular - You can do part of the design on plastic (leading blank) and adhere it to the clean glass, then add straight strips and texture to complete the project.

Gallery Glass projects are fast and easy to create and are much less expensive than real leaded glass. Don't be satisfied to just duplicate what I've done, but learn the simple techniques and then use the patterns on your own glassware and accessories. Express your creativity and produce accessories for your home and make distinctive gifts that will amaze your friends. It's not only easy, it's fun! Dig through the cupboards and closets for clear items to decorate and let's get started.

The designs seen in this post can be adapted to many types of clear glass or plastic decorator items that you either already have around your house or can purchase inexpensively. Some suggestions are: canisters, jars, vases, picture frames, clocks, jewelry boxes, hurricane globes, lamps, candle holders, plates, and serving trays.

Before you begin your project--Select the Technique
The basic Window Color Technique involves two basic steps OUTLINE and PAINT. After the leaded outline is positioned, the textured paint will seal it indefinitely. There are three ways to accomplish these steps on three dimensional objects. You will want to choose the one that is easiest for your project. Choose the method that is used on a project that is most similar to yours.

Vertical Method: This method is best for multi-sided projects (such as canisters and geometric all-over designs. After the pre-cured leading strips are positioned onto the design, the textured paint is normally applied with the item in an upright position.







Horizontal Method: This method is best for large items and one-side embellishments (such as frames). Place the item in a flat, horizontal position, lead the design, let leading dry, and paint the project horizontally.

The Modular Method: This method is best for smaller items with intricate designs or motifs that require removeability, such as an item you may want to submerge in water (in which case the design must be removed first). Using this method, you will lead and paint your design onto a piece of plastic stencil blank material, then when paint is dry,you can peel the design up and place it onto your glass item. It is usually combined with the vertical method if an all-over design is desired. This short cut enables you to decorate a complicated pattern in a fraction of the time because the intricate leading and coloring are done quick and efficiently--horizontally.

Redi-Lead is an option for this technique, however it is much more expensive than this method. If you are a good lead-er, you may wish to save money by making your own strips. They are much more natural looking, though extra time is required for them to dry. I use the leading blanks, but you may choose to use the alternative, which is cardboard covered with plastic. Estimate the number of feet of leading you will need by measuring the lines of your pattern. Two ounces of leading equals 31 linear feet. Follow general leading instructions for making the beads of leading. Adjust the size of the hole to fit the scale of your design. Larger designs look better with thicker strips. Outlining: Use a razor blade, craft knife, or scissors to trim any blotches or irregularities from the leading strips before applying them. Prepare item and place pattern under glass or transfer it to the surface with graphite paper. Peel up the cured leading strips and press them onto the clean glass, covering the pattern lines. Do not stretch the strips as you apply them. Strips can be pieced together by putting them together end to end, if you have a pattern line longer than your strip. Do not handle the strips any more than necessary. Small gaps will be filled in later. Intersecting lines should be trimmed with a single edge razor blade so that they meet cleanly; do not overlap leading strips. Spot leading: Touch up any gaps with Liquid Leading from the bottle. Let these spots dry thoroughly before applying the Gallery Glass paint.  Applying Color To Your Project: Choose your colors carefully. The color scheme should compliment the decor in which it will be used. Clear or light value transparent colors are usually more pleasing in large areas such as backgrounds. Crystal Clear is always a safe color choice. The best designs have a variety of colors and textures--smooth, bumpy, opaque, transparent. Never shake the paint, it will make it too Thin. Practice on a piece of glass such as an old picture frame. Apply a block of all the colors to be used, and comb them with a toothpick. This will give you a preview of your color scheme. If you plan to use Crystal Clear, apply a block in order to practice your uniform bumpy texture technique. The color intensity will vary according to the thickness of application. Thicker paint is deeper in color. Be sure to allow your test blocks to dry and evaluate them in various lighting. Make adjustments as needed in your color scheme.

Coverage: The amount of paint you will need depends on the size and type of project, also on the thickness of application. For vertical application, allow one bottle for one square foot when applying paint from the bottle. Brushed-on coatings will cover more area. Measure your pattern and estimate the number of square inches there will be of each color. buy enough paint to complete the job. Having enough paint is especially important if mixing colors.

Signs of the Holidays

An experienced glass crafter works herself to death during the holidays because the special requests pick up. People that have seen your work all year, will call and ask you to do a project for one of their family members or friends. Hopefully, you were able to fulfill these requests and earn a little extra money so that you could buy ELECTRONICS for your family (they usually don't want any more Gallery Glass). So it's a win/win situation.

After just such a request, one of my friends, an avid glass painter, called to ask if I had any patterns for signs such as Home Sweet Home or Welcome Home. Of course, but where was it? I looked in all the files at the office without success, so left a message on my home phone--to look there. Viola! I was seeing it in my head (because I rarely forget a pattern), but wasn't sure I could put my finger on it. The project I was seeing was in a very old book that was done for Gallery Glass Flow-on Paint, a smoother, thinner version of paint that was produced in the early '90's. You're lucky that I've been around for such a long time and that I am an avid collector of glass painting books. I found it without much trouble--along with several more, so I decided to share them with you so that you can continue to make some pocket change to pay those holiday credit card bills.

Here is one I wish we had found before Halloween, but I thought that I should put it in this post, so that you will automatically think of it next year in time to make up a version of it for your front window. It would look a lot better I think, if there was Crystal Clear on the Background. It is not a texture that was available in the Glass Paint Line, so it was not used in any of the signs. But keep it in mind. The amount of unpainted background in these projects would make them hard to keep clean. Bare glass--gets dirty.

Now, I've saved possibly the best sign for last! The Name Plate is undoubtedly the best possible choice, not always for the giver, but for the receiver, nothing rates higher on their list than a personalized project that beautifully displays their family moniker. It is somewhat adjustable by picking out a font on your computer and printing out the name, then enlarging it to fit the space. For short names this will be no problem. However, the longer the name, the more you may have to stretch the name vertically to make the letters tall and skinny. If it is a very long name, you can also add design elements to the border.

These signs were made even more exciting because of the lighting around the inside edge of the frame. Here are the artist's instructions on how to accomplish this special effect. I'm putting it in as an attachment, so that you can hopefully print it out.